Friday, April 2, 2010

The Hindu : Opinion / Open Page : Oh, my beloved brinjal!

The Hindu : Opinion / Open Page : Oh, my beloved brinjal!

Oh, my beloved brinjal!

B. Gurumurthy

The most popular vegetable in south India, especially in Tamil Nadu is brinjal; the other chief vegetable in the countryside being the cluster beans called ‘kotthavarangai,' in Tamil. Vegetables like carrot, beetroot, cabbage, and cauliflower were called by villagers as “English vegetables”, since they were grown in hilly areas where English settlers lived in pre-Independent India.

Brinjals are of different varieties, in size, colour and taste. More than 100 varieties are available in the market. One variety, of giant size, called the balloon variety has become extinct probably due to its poor demand. Some places in Tamil Nadu are famous for the cultivation of this vegetable. Meesalur, near Virudhunagar, is noted for cultivation of brinjal, which has its unique taste. Multicoloured brinjals, splashed with blue green and white, are an attraction to people visiting the vegetable market, and they are in great demand, whereas the pure white variety is shunned by some orthodox vegetarians, since it reminds them of eggs! Brinjals without much seeds within are preferred for their added flavour.

Buying brinjal requires a special knack since unlike in other vegetables wherein the setting in of the rot is visible, in this vegetable a small hole somewhere hidden in it will not be openly visible though it has to be examined thoroughly, that too quickly, while selecting them.

Brinjals occupy a prominent place in culinary items. In south Indian marriages, the main item served on the day of marriage is the special sambar with brinjal called 'Rasavaangi'.Yet, one more way of cooking this vegetable needs a special mention here. The brinjal is not cut into pieces, but a deep diagonal incision is made keeping the vegetable intact and, after stuffing it with chilli powder and masala, it is baked with oil. What you get is a mouth watering dish and this item is called as “ennai katthirukkai”, also known as “stuffed brinjal”. “Kotsu”, a popular and delicious side dish to the rice uppuma (familiar household tiffin in south India) is nothing but blanching of the outer cover by partly roasting brinjal in oil and using the fleshy part of the vegetable with that of the correct ratio of tamarind extract and salt seasoned with mustard seeds.

Brinjal has a humorous side in common parlance. Elders in Tamil families those days who abhorred love marriages used to say kaadhalavadhu, katthirukkaavadhu, meaning that their love is cheaper than brinjal. Bulky people with short limbs were jocularly called a brinjal grown with limbs (katthirukkaiku kaiuum kaalum muzhaitha maadhiri). This is mentioned in a lighter vein without intending to offend anybody.

Those were the days when brinjal was called “the poor man's vegetable,” since it was available in abundance and was cheaper in the market when compared to other vegetables. Potato, called the king of vegetables, was dominating the market. Now the trend has reversed. Brinjal has become costlier. It has, of late, attained national importance with the advent of genetically modified variety called “Bt brinjal”, introduced through scientific research. This new breed has met with strong opposition from farmers and public alike as it has generated an element of doubt on its harmful effects. The government therefore, has banned the cultivation of this new variety until it is proved beyond doubt that it is harmless for human consumption.

Thank God! we shall continue to enjoy the taste and delicacy of our native variety for some more years.

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